Jason Statham’s Rare Replica Rolex Submariner

When Jason Statham arrived at London Fashion Week wearing a steel replica Rolex Submariner, the choice seemed surprisingly understated for a man known for his affinity for bold and luxurious watches – his rose gold Patek Philippe Nautilus being a prime example. Yet, a closer look revealed something far more intriguing. As Tim Green, Head of Commercial at Subdial, remarked, “At first glance, it looks like a simple, modest Submariner. But realizing it’s a COMEX-issued piece changes everything. It’s an incredibly rare and discreet display of serious collecting taste. Bravo, Jason.”

The watch in question, first identified by watch spotter Nick Gould, is no ordinary Submariner. “It’s a special model equipped with a Helium Escape Valve,” Gould explained to GQ. “This version was never available to the public – it was made exclusively for COMEX divers. The small logo on the dial gives it that added layer of cool authenticity.”

The COMEX Connection
Statham’s Submariner belongs to a rare family of watches born from Rolex’s collaboration with COMEX – short for Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise – a French commercial diving company based in Marseille. In the late 1960s, COMEX divers faced a serious technical issue: during deep saturation dives, helium molecules would infiltrate their watches, causing crystals to pop off during decompression. The problem wasn’t unique to COMEX; U.S. Navy divers experienced the same challenge as professional diving pushed deeper underwater.

To solve this, Rolex engineered a technical innovation – the helium escape valve – a small one-way mechanism allowing trapped gas to safely exit without damaging the watch. Initially integrated into modified Submariner ref. 5513 models, the solution eventually led to the creation of a distinct reference: the Submariner ref. 5514, produced in extremely limited numbers for COMEX divers only. These watches, identifiable by the COMEX logo on their dials, have since become some of the most sought-after collector’s pieces in the world.

Today, when a genuine COMEX Submariner surfaces at auction, it can command prices well into six figures. The allure lies not just in rarity but also in the subtlety – aside from the discreet logo, Statham’s watch appears nearly identical to a standard matte-dial 5513, a model worth around £20,000. That quiet exclusivity – the kind only true enthusiasts recognize – is what defines the term stealth wealth.

The Sea-Dweller Legacy and the Birth of a Legend
The helium escape valve used in the COMEX Submariners came directly from another Rolex masterpiece: the Sea-Dweller, first released in 1967. Designed for professional deep-sea exploration, the Sea-Dweller expanded fake Rolex’s reputation for technical excellence. Its debut, the now-legendary “Double Red Sea-Dweller” ref. 1665, became a cornerstone of professional diving watches and established the foundation for all future Sea-Dweller models.

But why did COMEX continue using the modified Submariners, like the 5513 and 5514, even after the Sea-Dweller became available? According to watch expert Eric Wind of Wind Vintage, the answer may come down to cost and practicality. “The Sea-Dweller’s greater depth rating made it more expensive,” he notes. “For certain operations, COMEX divers may have preferred the thinner profile of the Submariner – it’s less bulky, more comfortable, and less likely to snag on gear.”

Whatever the reason, these COMEX-issued Submariners now stand as symbols of Rolex’s engineering legacy – purpose-built instruments that embody the brand’s roots in professional tool watchmaking. Before Rolex became synonymous with high luxury, it was the brand that equipped divers, explorers, and soldiers with watches designed for survival, not display.

From Tool Watch to Luxury Icon
The story of the COMEX Submariner also reminds us how far Rolex has evolved. In the 1950s and 1960s, Rolex tool watches were utilitarian devices: the Submariner for divers, the Explorer for mountaineers, and the GMT-Master for pilots. It wasn’t until the 1970s, when the brand began producing its sports models in precious metals, that Rolex transitioned from an instrument-maker to a symbol of refined status and success.

Statham’s choice, then, feels almost poetic – a nod to Rolex’s rugged, purposeful past amid the polished glamour of today’s luxury landscape. It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t shout for attention but rewards those who know what they’re looking at.

Other Celebrity Watch Moments
Elsewhere at London Fashion Week, another British icon, Sir Elton John, showcased his penchant for flamboyant replica watches, wearing his signature rose gold Rolex Day-Date. A mainstay in his collection – even after auctioning off much of his watch wardrobe last year – the Day-Date remains a fitting symbol for the Rocket Man: opulent yet timeless, with a black dial that exudes sophistication.

Meanwhile, Statham’s Fast & Furious co-star Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson opted for a different kind of refinement at the London premiere of The Smashing Machine. On his wrist was a 41mm Chopard Alpine Eagle, a sleek, modern sports watch with an integrated bracelet. Known for his oversized wristwear, Johnson’s choice of the more understated Chopard marked a subtle evolution – perhaps even signaling a more mature, Oscar-season-ready style.

And across the Atlantic, Jay Leno, the renowned car and watch enthusiast, appeared at a Breguet event in Los Angeles wearing the Breguet Classique Souscription 2026. Inspired by the subscription watches made by Abraham-Louis Breguet during the French Revolution, the piece bridges the gap between horological history and contemporary craftsmanship – a fitting choice for a collector who values mechanical storytelling as much as engineering precision.

From Statham’s stealthy COMEX Submariner to Elton John’s radiant Day-Date, these celebrity watch choices reveal more than just taste – they reflect personality, heritage, and a shared appreciation for craftsmanship. In Statham’s case, the rare Submariner ref. 5514 doesn’t just tell time; it tells a story of human ingenuity, deep-sea adventure, and the enduring bond between form and function that defines the very soul of Rolex.