TAG Heuer’s Nautical Homage, Regal Hue, and Racing Revival
While still a student, Jack Heuer partnered with his physics teacher to create the Solunar for Abercrombie & Fitch, the world’s first wristwatch displaying tide times. This pioneering spirit materialized in 1950 as the vibrant Heuer Seafarer chronograph, a dedicated maritime instrument. Echoing this heritage, TAG Heuer now unveils a captivating new interpretation for the French market: the Carrera Chronograph 42mm Limited Edition for France. Limited to 500 pieces, this exclusive model channels the spirit of that 1950s Seafarer through its refined 42mm case and a dial awash in maritime hues.
Building upon the sophisticated 42mm Carrera platform introduced for the brand’s 160th anniversary in 2020, this French exclusive retains the clean lines that define its lineage. Eschewing the tachymeter scale of some chronographs, its polished bezel flows seamlessly into the case top surfaces, projecting an air of understated elegance. Subtle nods to its racing ancestry remain, however, in the form of piston-style pushers, a prominent crown, angular lugs, and the angled flange marking the seconds/minutes track. This blend of elegance and inherent sportiness is housed in a 100-meter water-resistant case.
The dial is a masterclass in evocative color. A deep blue opaline base, reminiscent of the ocean’s depths, provides a striking canvas. Contrasting sharply are the silver sub-dials, their interiors finely snailed for texture. Time is indicated by luminous hour and minute hands, while the central chronograph seconds hand and the hands within the counters blaze in a vibrant canary yellow lacquer. Though not explicitly billed as a regatta timer, the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock reveals a clever detail: divided into six 5-minute segments, it alternates turquoise and silver wedges, offering a visual countdown tool perfectly suited for the starting line of a sailing race. At 6 o’clock, the small seconds indicator is discreetly marked by three slim lines, framing a rectangular date window edged in silver.
Within ticks the robust Calibre TH20-00 (formerly Heuer 02), an automatic column-wheel chronograph movement with bidirectional winding. It boasts an impressive 80-hour power reserve. The exhibition caseback offers a view of the mechanics, including the column wheel and bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève decoration, partially revealed by the shield-shaped openworked rotor. Completing the maritime theme, the watch is fitted with a perforated dark blue calfskin rally strap featuring distinctive turquoise top-stitching and a secure folding clasp. This exclusive French offering carries a price of EUR 7,350.
Simultaneously, TAG Heuer replica infuses its iconic Carrera line with a touch of royal sophistication for 2025, introducing a mesmerizing smoky purple across both the Carrera Chronograph and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. Celebrated for its timeless design, clarity, and precision, the Carrera now embraces this majestic color within its famed Glassbox architecture, ensuring exceptional legibility from any vantage point. The dials master a smooth gradient, transitioning from profound black at the periphery to a radiant, luminous purple at the center. This chromatic evolution follows the successful precedent set by the 2022 Monaco Chronograph.
The standard Carrera Chronograph features a 39mm stainless steel case housing the in-house Heuer 02 (TH20-00) movement, visible through a skeleton caseback. The more exclusive 42mm Tourbillon variant, limited to just 200 individually numbered pieces, is powered by the specialized Heuer 02T (TH20-09) tourbillon movement, offering a 65-hour power reserve. Both models share a perforated black leather strap, detailed with black front stitching and a luxurious purple calfskin lining with tone-on-tone stitching on the reverse, complemented by luminous minute and second hands.
Further cementing its racing DNA, TAG Heuer deepens its compelling partnership with Porsche. Since their official alliance began in 2021, the collaboration has yielded numerous timepieces, including chronographs and smartwatches. The latest fruit of this union is a new black-dial iteration of the Carrera Chronosprint, unveiled for this year’s replica Watch Week, drawing inspiration from Porsche’s storied history at the Monte Carlo Rally – a grueling event first run in 1911, where Porsche made its debut with the 911 in 1965.
The Chronosprint’s defining feature remains its ingenious seconds hand, engineered to mimic the acceleration of a classic automobile’s tachometer. It sprints rapidly from 0 to 10 seconds, then decelerates progressively to 60 seconds before resetting. This captivating display is reprised in the new black version. Visually, the watch transitions from its predecessor’s silver tones to a high-gloss black dial. Rhodium-plated hands and indices adorn the steel model, while the 18k yellow gold version features matching gold-plated elements, both framing the three subdials. The chronograph seconds hand occupies the center, with the running seconds relocated to a subdial at the bottom.
Notably, the flange marking has been updated: replacing the 9.1-second mark (honoring the 1963 Porsche 901’s 0-100 km/h time), it now highlights 8.4 seconds – the acceleration time achieved by the 1965 Porsche 911 during the Monte Carlo Rally. The homage to Porsche’s racing heritage continues with a highlighted segment from 50 to 55 on the running seconds subdial, echoing the 50 km/h speed limit warnings on 1970s Porsche dashboards. Similarly, a segment between 6.8 and 12 on the hour counter subdial references the era’s 6,800 RPM limit.
